A Study in Sunlight: The Leisure Subject Guide to Capri
There are islands that shimmer with nostalgia, and then there is Capri — a place that exists outside of time, suspended somewhere between Neapolitan folklore and cinematic fantasy. Under the summer sun, everything feels slightly surreal: lemon trees draped over tiled terraces, waiters in cream linen jackets balancing trays of spritzes, the glint of sea salt on sun-warmed skin. Capri is myth made tangible, and somehow, it never feels forced.
This season, Leisure Subject checked in with our editor-at-large, Quentin Smith (@quentinthe5th) to map out the island’s modern glow — here is his curated edit of the places, moods, and rituals that define his Capri, now. From cliffside aperitivi to candlelit trattorias and secret late-night addresses, the guide blends old-world rhythm with new-world refinement. Somewhere between fantasy and familiarity — surreal one moment, celebratory the next.
The pink palazzo with the best vantage point on the island. Inside: rooms dressed in celadon and ivory, fringed umbrellas on the rooftop pool, and the kind of quiet luxury that whispers, not shouts. Come here for the balance — of taste, of tempo, of light. Stay for Luce, the in-house restaurant where design and decadence meet with a smile.
Capri’s most stylish new scene, perched above the Faraglioni. It’s less about the view (though the view is exquisite) and more about the mood: sunbathers in silk scarves, cold martinis before 2pm, a soundtrack of Italian disco and distant boat horns. An afternoon here is a moodboard of Riviera modernism.
When the lights go down, this is where the island exhales. A local institution turned global rite of passage, the taverna is pure, unabashed joy. Guitars. Tambourines. Models dancing with mariners. Whether you’re front row or pressed against the bar, it’s the closest you’ll get to the soul of Capri after dark.
A marina-side classic that serves up Amalfi tradition with a wink. Order the spaghetti alle vongole or a whole fish, grilled and served with lemon the size of a tennis ball. The people-watching here is as good as the pasta — if not better.
Accessible by footpath or boat, this sun-drenched cliffside restaurant is carved into a quiet corner of the coastline. Expect fresh catches, cold Falanghina, and views so good they hush even the loudest tables.
A well-kept secret for those who prefer caprese salads in dappled light and pasta alle zucchine that tastes like summer itself. Rustic, romantic, and set above the sea in a lemon grove haze.
The scent of warm waffle cones draws you in. The gelato — especially the fig, the ricotta, the nocciola — keeps you coming back. Order two scoops and let it melt slowly down your wrist. It’s part of the ritual.
Where poetry and powdery marble collide. Built in 1905 by Baron Jacques d’Adelswärd-Fersen, this decadent villa has long seduced artists, aesthetes, and dreamers. Come for the architecture, stay for the atmosphere — all faded grandeur and jasmine breezes.
A candlelit hideaway tucked just off the Piazzetta, Salotto Bohémien is less bar, more reverie. A rotating playlist of Italo classics and jazz sets the mood for natural wines and aperitivo bites served with casual elegance. Come for a glass of something unexpected; stay for the golden hour glow and the feeling that you’ve stumbled into a very good secret.
Linen, but make it couture. This iconic Capri label elevates Mediterranean essentials with razor-sharp tailoring and impossibly soft textures. Think relaxed silhouettes, elevated neutrals, and the kind of pieces you wear barefoot on a boat—or belted at a Roman dinner party. It’s quietly luxurious, and unmistakably local.
Tucked inside the historic Palazzo Cerio, Eco Capri blends heritage with whimsy. The boutique offers a curated collection of housewares, accessories, and textiles inspired by Laetitia Cerio’s vibrant illustrations. From lacquer trays to silk cushions and linen pareos, everything feels sun-kissed and impossibly chic.
From sea-lapped lunches to late-night melodies, The Leisure Subject Guide to Capri is our celebration of the island’s enduring magic. Capri may be iconic, but its magic lives in the margins; moments of serendipity, citrus-scented nights, and the feeling of returning to a place you’ve never truly left.
